As I mentioned to the few people I was lucky enough to speak to back home I planned to go whale-watching. I organised a tour for this morning and it was even more exciting than I´d hoped for!
It took me quite a while to choose a tour company as Puerto Lopez is based around the whale-watching industry and so it is full of lots of tour companies and lots of tourists. Because of the tourists I wasn´t too impressed with Puerto Lopez when I first got off the bus as it doesn´t have any of the charm that the smaller towns (like Salinas) have.
This morning, however, I jumped on the boat with an Ecuadorian family and a German family and we motored out for about half an hour. The nicer family by far where the Ecuadorians, despite the language barrier. They had three delightful kids and the two small boys were enjoying getting wet at the front of the boat.
Our boat then joined about 4 others that were idling in the water and the wait began. The first sight of a whale was it´s back and it was very exciting; lots of shouting and pointing. The boats all have equipment to sense the whales and so you to know to look in the direction they are going when they all suddenly head off in the same direction. In this way we saw the back of the whales and the tail quite a few times. I have to admit at this point I was wandering what all the excitment was. Every tourist that we´ve met who´s seen the whales raves about them and says it the most amazing thing they´ve ever seen. While it was very impressive I did think it had been over-hyped.
However, it was definetely a waiting game. We got closer and closer to the whales and they began to look more and more impressive. The last ones we saw were easily the best. We were about 20m away and up until then I didn´t realise how big the whales were. They are huge - up to 15m. This means nothing until you´ve seen them. You see most of their back as they break the water and the fin and then the tail and it seems to go on forever! I think the best word to describe them is majestic. They are gorgeous creatures and I was not disappointed in any way. The one we saw even had a baby with it which you could see surfacing right next to it´s mother.
After all the excitment we got lunch and were heading back to the coast when the captain suddenly pointed ahead. There was a whole school of dolphins. I saw dolphins in India but it was nothing compared to this. The photographer said there were around 200 of them - there were so many and they moved so fast! It might have been because of just seeing a whale but they were smaller than I expected. You got to see the whole dolphin as they were all jumping out of the water. It was a really amazing sight and we were so lucky to have seen them.
I hope that everyone at home is well and that I get to speak to you all soon!
Thursday, 28 July 2011
Sunday, 24 July 2011
Cheese, Chocolate and Salt Mines
After our jungle experience we thought we needed a bit of luxury and so headed to the mountain town of Salinas - famous for its cheese and chocolate.
It was a big change after the humidity of the jungle to head up to the mountains, and very refreshing. It´s given our mosquito bites a chance to heal as well!
Salinas is described the Lonely Planet as a ´charming little village´ and it really is. It´s got a lovely atmosphere with a real community feel. The first of the industries was cheese and it was started by an Italian priest in the 70s. Apparently he´s still alive and living there as well. Shows that cheese and chocolate have to be good for you.
We had a guide who showed us around the different industries. All the money they produce goes straight back into the community and none of the products are exported out of Ecuador. It seems to keep the community feel going though and the guide had real pride in Salinas.
They also have salt mines which neither of us realised. These sound much less exciting but are really interesting. It was less of a mine and more of a mountain side that salty water ran down. There were bowls that had been made by people leaving the shape for it and then the minerals hardening round the edge and so now the bowls stay there by just minerals. You could also taste the salt in the water which is also full of minerals and so the salt is good for you. Tell that Western doctors!
The cheese and chocolate lived up to expectations and I hope we added to the local community by our purchases :)
It was a big change after the humidity of the jungle to head up to the mountains, and very refreshing. It´s given our mosquito bites a chance to heal as well!
Salinas is described the Lonely Planet as a ´charming little village´ and it really is. It´s got a lovely atmosphere with a real community feel. The first of the industries was cheese and it was started by an Italian priest in the 70s. Apparently he´s still alive and living there as well. Shows that cheese and chocolate have to be good for you.
We had a guide who showed us around the different industries. All the money they produce goes straight back into the community and none of the products are exported out of Ecuador. It seems to keep the community feel going though and the guide had real pride in Salinas.
They also have salt mines which neither of us realised. These sound much less exciting but are really interesting. It was less of a mine and more of a mountain side that salty water ran down. There were bowls that had been made by people leaving the shape for it and then the minerals hardening round the edge and so now the bowls stay there by just minerals. You could also taste the salt in the water which is also full of minerals and so the salt is good for you. Tell that Western doctors!
The cheese and chocolate lived up to expectations and I hope we added to the local community by our purchases :)
Three Days in a Very Muddy Jungle!
Charlotte and I have just come back from 3 days in the jungle. It was fantastic, tiring and very very muddy!
We chose the tour company because we knew it had links to the local community and were told that one of the guides lived in the community. As it´s in what is called the ´primary jungle´ we got a taxi part of the way there and then walked the rest. I expected mud, but to say there were lots was an understatement!
The village was really welcoming - the chief offered us a local drink called ´Chicha´ which was very filling and slightly alcoholic. Our guide said you could drink it and it would suffice for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We thought we might make the most of the delicious food though... There were kids all over the place as the families were huge. When we arrived they were playing with home-made kites, and happily posing for the camera.
After we had lunch we headed up to a viewpoint in the jungle. We walked up 200m of altitude to get there, and it was a real scramble! More mud and the path was quite steep and I was pouring with sweat by the time we got to the top. It was well worth it though, the view was stunning. The rainforest just seems to go on forever, you can see nothing but green, it´s so breath-taking. Even though we were so high up we could still hear the river, which was just below us. Apparently it was quite full and with 3 days of sun it would become lower and greener. It just shows how quickly things change here.
Our guides were really interesting and knew so much about everything in the forest. It seems that every plant has a use and the guides knew about it all. They showed us trees they used as the columns in the houses and the leaves they used as the roof. One of our guides also made us a ´natural bag´ which the hunters used to make to carry the animals. He turned a palm tree-like leaf into a matter of minutes! Hopefully photos will come soon (or soonish).
The second day we were heading to the nearby caves. Again, these were amazing. The rocks were gorgeous, and surprisingly varied in colour - there was one that looked like a cows head! There was also more wildlife than I expected - the guides showed us a lobster, eel and fish. We had to scramble through some of the paths, but they are well trodden paths. Although at the end the path went into a pool of water and this pool of water went up to my chest. Little bit cold but we soon warmed up in the sun.
In the afternoon we ´played´ football. Or the kids played football and we essentially became spectators. I don´t think either of us added much to the team to be honest. We then went for a swim in the river Pastaza with lots of the local kids. As soon as we got in the water it turned into a water fight which the boys loved!
After we got out we played games with some of the younger girls. There was one particular 5 year old who was very keen to keep hold of our hands! It was great playing with the kids although we got covered with mosquito bites, and the kids happily counted the ones of my back the next day - they seemed surprised by the number of them!
The last day was spent very near to the village and we only went for a short walk close to the village to see the land which one of the guides owned although apparently the women do most of the work!
After lunch we had a very muddy and fast walk back so we didn´t miss the taxi. We arrived sweaty and completely filthy. It was very sad saying goodbye to the village, especially the kids. It was a great experience and about as remote as I think it was possible to get. The jungle is absolutley stunning and there is just so much fruit, plants and trees that we don´t have in England. It was well worth the sweaty walk there and back and a very loud taxi driver!
We chose the tour company because we knew it had links to the local community and were told that one of the guides lived in the community. As it´s in what is called the ´primary jungle´ we got a taxi part of the way there and then walked the rest. I expected mud, but to say there were lots was an understatement!
The village was really welcoming - the chief offered us a local drink called ´Chicha´ which was very filling and slightly alcoholic. Our guide said you could drink it and it would suffice for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We thought we might make the most of the delicious food though... There were kids all over the place as the families were huge. When we arrived they were playing with home-made kites, and happily posing for the camera.
After we had lunch we headed up to a viewpoint in the jungle. We walked up 200m of altitude to get there, and it was a real scramble! More mud and the path was quite steep and I was pouring with sweat by the time we got to the top. It was well worth it though, the view was stunning. The rainforest just seems to go on forever, you can see nothing but green, it´s so breath-taking. Even though we were so high up we could still hear the river, which was just below us. Apparently it was quite full and with 3 days of sun it would become lower and greener. It just shows how quickly things change here.
Our guides were really interesting and knew so much about everything in the forest. It seems that every plant has a use and the guides knew about it all. They showed us trees they used as the columns in the houses and the leaves they used as the roof. One of our guides also made us a ´natural bag´ which the hunters used to make to carry the animals. He turned a palm tree-like leaf into a matter of minutes! Hopefully photos will come soon (or soonish).
The second day we were heading to the nearby caves. Again, these were amazing. The rocks were gorgeous, and surprisingly varied in colour - there was one that looked like a cows head! There was also more wildlife than I expected - the guides showed us a lobster, eel and fish. We had to scramble through some of the paths, but they are well trodden paths. Although at the end the path went into a pool of water and this pool of water went up to my chest. Little bit cold but we soon warmed up in the sun.
In the afternoon we ´played´ football. Or the kids played football and we essentially became spectators. I don´t think either of us added much to the team to be honest. We then went for a swim in the river Pastaza with lots of the local kids. As soon as we got in the water it turned into a water fight which the boys loved!
After we got out we played games with some of the younger girls. There was one particular 5 year old who was very keen to keep hold of our hands! It was great playing with the kids although we got covered with mosquito bites, and the kids happily counted the ones of my back the next day - they seemed surprised by the number of them!
The last day was spent very near to the village and we only went for a short walk close to the village to see the land which one of the guides owned although apparently the women do most of the work!
After lunch we had a very muddy and fast walk back so we didn´t miss the taxi. We arrived sweaty and completely filthy. It was very sad saying goodbye to the village, especially the kids. It was a great experience and about as remote as I think it was possible to get. The jungle is absolutley stunning and there is just so much fruit, plants and trees that we don´t have in England. It was well worth the sweaty walk there and back and a very loud taxi driver!
Sunday, 17 July 2011
A Natural Shower in Baños
We´ve had a very busy two days, and got very wet on both!
On Friday we went white-water rafting as Baños is one of the main tourist destinations for it. We turned up at 9 and got given our wet suits, helmets and shoes. All of which looked very attractive when we tried them on. A bus ride to the river, safety talk and then we were off!
There were 6 to a boat, in two lines of 3. The two at the front - the ´captains´ - had to keep time with each other when paddling to make sure we were going in a straight line. Charlotte and I both decided against being captains and left it to the very eager Canadian boys.
White-water rafting isn´t all adrenaline, and there is a lot of calm water in between the rapids. Out guide was brilliant though and happily chatted his way through the calmer parts. It also gave you a chance to appreciate the jungle, as it is gorgeous. It was raining, which made it colder, but every now and then you would get a warm breeze from further down river.
When there were rapids, however, you had to be very focused. The guide shouted instructions and we all followed obediently and rowed (mostly) in sync. They generally ended with a wave which meant you got soaked, but I think the guide made this inevitable anyway...
It was great fun and a real adrenaline rush and lovely being on the water.
On Saturday we decided to go for a second active day and went for a bike ride. Baños has loads of waterfalls close by and the best way to see them is by bike. So we hired these from our hostel (which is run by lovely people and is one of the nicest we´ve been in so far) and headed out with the directions - left, up, right, route.
We did get there and there wasn´t really any way you could get lost. We both really enjoyed the bike ride and it was relaxing in a way, nice to see the scenery at a slower pace with the option to stop.
The smaller waterfalls were nice to see but there was a main one called ´Cascada del Diablo´ or Devil´s waterfall. I have to admit I wasn´t expecting anything like what I saw. The power of it was incredible.
The water came over the edge, at speed, and when it hit the pool the water shot up again about 10m, all completely white. We had been warned that we would get wet and to take a raincoat. You got soaked. The spray from the waterfall was everywhere and all the surfaces were covered with water.
You were also able to go behind the waterfall near where it came over the edge. To do this you had to clamber your way through what was more like a tunnel than a path and then climb onto the ledge. Behind the waterfall was great, very loud which just shows how powerful it was!
We´ve had two really great days that we´ve both really enjoyed. It´s currently pouring with rain in Baños and we´re heading to the jungle so I think we´re going to be in for a wet couple of days!
Thursday, 14 July 2011
First Impressions
It´s been a tiring first week and Charlotte and I have packed a lot in! We´ve explored Quito, been to some thermal baths, climbed to the top of a Church, seen the biggest market in Ecuador and been trekking around a crater lake.
Quito is the captial of Ecuador and the ´must see´ area is Old Town which, unsurpisingly, contains the more historical and colonial buildings. It´s a lovely place to walk around and get a feel for the place. It´s full of Churches and one of the most famous is the Basilica del Voto Nacional. What attracted us to this particular Church (there are dozens) was the opportunity to climb all the way to the top to get a fantastic view of Quito. To get there you went along a bridge (above the ceiling to the main chapel, so were a loft would be) and then up a series of ladders which, at that height, seemed a bit nerve racking and we were at the top. The view of Quito was stunning. It was far bigger than I first expected and it sprawls along the valley that it´s in. The sun was shining and it was well worth climbing up the ladders to see!
After our walk around Quito we decided to try the thermal baths for relaxation. And they were exactly that. Set a couple of hours outside of Quito they are in the middle of the Andean hillside and the scenery is gorgeous. Sitting in warm springs while looking at the green hillside through the steam is definetly worth travelling on a bus for! There were different temperatures and we made our way up to the hottest one. We even tried the freezing cold one which is suprisingly refreshing. So much so we tried it twice. And then got some warm coffee.
Next on our trip was the market Otavalo, which the Lonely Planet made out to be fantastic. It did sell lots of things, all in bright colours and very touristy. However, as neither of us like shopping and didn´t want to carry too much stuff around we didn´t spend as long at the market as most. We did find what we wanted though and then have some cake. Banana cake with ice cream. Well worth the trip.
After our many days on buses visiting places we decided to go for a very short trek. It started at a town called Latacunga, which is the beginning of what is known as the Quilotoa loop. Here we met a Aussie and American who told us about their plans to hike around the Quilotoa loop. And we decided to copy.
From Latacunga we got a bus to where we would begin the trek and stayed there over night. Unfortunately I must have picked up something there and woke early in the morning feeling ill. However, once it was out of my system I was fine and I was able to trek that day, although probably finding it a bit more difficult than normal and was very tired by the time we got the the next town!
However, the second (and last) day we trekked around the crater lake at Quilotoa, which the loop is named after and (shockingly) is the main point of the trek. The lake is amazing. It´s bright blue and completely enclosed by the sides of the crater which rise quite steeply from the lake. It´s breath-taking when you first see it. Half way around it still looks spectacular but you don´t appreciate it quite as much... The view on the other side is also beautiful though. The Andean countryside is smaller hills between the bigger ones with fields of both green and yellow, which the sunlight catches and really highlights. The people that live in the houses are so remote from everything, it´s something that you can´t see in England. Such a large stretch of land with so few people. The view encouraged the climbing up some of the ´hills´around the crater. ´Rim´implies it to be relatively flat. Don´t let that fool you.
We are now in Baños, which is a very touristy town and we´re looking forward to spending a few days here. From just walking round the shops I´ve just seen a man making a button which he gave to me. He made if from scratch and it took him less than 3 minutes, it just shows the generosity of the people here.
Hope all´s well back in England and that´s is sunny and bright there.
Quito is the captial of Ecuador and the ´must see´ area is Old Town which, unsurpisingly, contains the more historical and colonial buildings. It´s a lovely place to walk around and get a feel for the place. It´s full of Churches and one of the most famous is the Basilica del Voto Nacional. What attracted us to this particular Church (there are dozens) was the opportunity to climb all the way to the top to get a fantastic view of Quito. To get there you went along a bridge (above the ceiling to the main chapel, so were a loft would be) and then up a series of ladders which, at that height, seemed a bit nerve racking and we were at the top. The view of Quito was stunning. It was far bigger than I first expected and it sprawls along the valley that it´s in. The sun was shining and it was well worth climbing up the ladders to see!
After our walk around Quito we decided to try the thermal baths for relaxation. And they were exactly that. Set a couple of hours outside of Quito they are in the middle of the Andean hillside and the scenery is gorgeous. Sitting in warm springs while looking at the green hillside through the steam is definetly worth travelling on a bus for! There were different temperatures and we made our way up to the hottest one. We even tried the freezing cold one which is suprisingly refreshing. So much so we tried it twice. And then got some warm coffee.
Next on our trip was the market Otavalo, which the Lonely Planet made out to be fantastic. It did sell lots of things, all in bright colours and very touristy. However, as neither of us like shopping and didn´t want to carry too much stuff around we didn´t spend as long at the market as most. We did find what we wanted though and then have some cake. Banana cake with ice cream. Well worth the trip.
After our many days on buses visiting places we decided to go for a very short trek. It started at a town called Latacunga, which is the beginning of what is known as the Quilotoa loop. Here we met a Aussie and American who told us about their plans to hike around the Quilotoa loop. And we decided to copy.
From Latacunga we got a bus to where we would begin the trek and stayed there over night. Unfortunately I must have picked up something there and woke early in the morning feeling ill. However, once it was out of my system I was fine and I was able to trek that day, although probably finding it a bit more difficult than normal and was very tired by the time we got the the next town!
However, the second (and last) day we trekked around the crater lake at Quilotoa, which the loop is named after and (shockingly) is the main point of the trek. The lake is amazing. It´s bright blue and completely enclosed by the sides of the crater which rise quite steeply from the lake. It´s breath-taking when you first see it. Half way around it still looks spectacular but you don´t appreciate it quite as much... The view on the other side is also beautiful though. The Andean countryside is smaller hills between the bigger ones with fields of both green and yellow, which the sunlight catches and really highlights. The people that live in the houses are so remote from everything, it´s something that you can´t see in England. Such a large stretch of land with so few people. The view encouraged the climbing up some of the ´hills´around the crater. ´Rim´implies it to be relatively flat. Don´t let that fool you.
We are now in Baños, which is a very touristy town and we´re looking forward to spending a few days here. From just walking round the shops I´ve just seen a man making a button which he gave to me. He made if from scratch and it took him less than 3 minutes, it just shows the generosity of the people here.
Hope all´s well back in England and that´s is sunny and bright there.
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